Stepping into the Amazon Jungle in Tena – Two Weeks in Ecuador

This post is the second of a five part series, “Two Weeks in Ecuador.” Over spring break, I traveled to the middle of the world with my friend, Stacie. The trip included a one-week session with G-adventures and the other half backpacking around on our own. Thanks for reading and enjoy!

Arriving in Tena

After just a three and a half hour bus down a winding road from Baños, we moved from the Andes into the Amazon. From the bus terminal, we loaded into a van for the thirty minute ride out to our homestay. Stepping out of the vehicle into the humid jungle, I grabbed my pack and took the first strides into the jungle. Huge green leaves created a canopy above us. I was so excited to be there, as this was the part of the adventure that first attracted me to this Ecuador trip, but I also was a little nervous of potential creepy crawly buggers or slithering snakes lurking around.

Homestay in the Jungle

We were immediately welcomed into the home of Don Delfín, a member of the G-adventures family. Don Delfín is well known in the community for his playful sense of humor, expertise in nature and medicinal plants, and his welcoming family.

The homestay compound consisted of several wooden buildings. A kitchen and dining porch was the central social area. There was a building of dorms with two floors. Each room had beds for two with mosquitos nets. Outside, a series of hammocks hung under a shelter. Bathrooms had flush toilets and cold showers.

The family prepared delicious meals during our time in the jungle. For our welcome lunch we had veggie soup, meat and rice with yuca fries and cabbage. A traditional dinner included maito, which involves fish wrapped in a large bijao leaves and flavored with salt. When cooked over a  fire, the leaves don’t burn and provide a unique flavor to the fish. For breakfasts, we enjoyed eggs, coffee, and fresh juice from the local fruits. Most meals included  the staples of plantains and yuca. We also sipped tons of the local guayusa tea, known for cleaning out the bad energy.

Overnight the temperature cooled off comfortably for sleeping. All the sounds of the jungle came out to lull us to sleep, especially the cicadas. In the morning, we woke before the sunrise to the sounds of roosters cawing, rain sprinkling on the tin roof, insects buzzing and dogs barking. We weren’t the first ones up.  The ladies in the kitchen were already chopping and blending before 6:00 am.

Walking in the Amazon

Our first afternoon, Don Delfín took us on a walk in the forests near his house. For the hike, we donned long pants and rubber boots to protect us from the serious jungle mud and the creepie crawlies. Fortunately, the only little snake we saw was dead on the road.

Along the way, Don Delfin pointed out all the unique flowers and critters of the Amazon. He found a termite mound almost as tall as he was. Next, Don Delfín explained that they’re quite annoying for the wooden construction but are a vital part of decomposition in the forest. He then pointed out the Heliconia flowers, which provide nectar for hummingbirds and brighten the forest with their bright yellow and orange flowers. As we hiked, Don Delfín made himself a little sun hat out of big leaf. As we continued, he added other creative tidbits such as silly glasses rims from a stem and a nose ring.

Leading the way, Don Delfin blazed a trail with his machete. He led us up to two viewpoints over the river. Next, we followed him to a river bed where he dug up fresh clay. He explained that the Quichua people used this mud for healing fevers and enriching the skin with minerals. They also used it to create beautiful pottery. We lined up and helped each other apply a refreshing clay face mask.

Making Chocolate

One of Ecuador’s biggest exports is cocoa. Cocoa and the chocolate making process are deeply ingrained in Ecuador’s traditional culture and economy. Don Delfín’s son-in-law gave us a lesson. First, the large yellow fruits hanging from the trees are harvested and the fleshy white bits inside are removed. The fruit around the large seeds is already sweet but tastes nothing like chocolate at this point. The fruit is then placed in a bag where it ferments and the liquid drains out.

Afterward, the pieces are dried for three or four days. We saw this done all around Tena where families would lay out a tarp to dry the cocoa pieces. Next, the pieces are toasted over a fire until they pop. Once they pop, the pieces are much easier to shell. The shelled pieces then go into a grinder. At this stage, the flakes have a chocolatey smell but the taste is still quite bitter.

The last step involves putting the cocoa flakes back on the fire. Don Deflin’s son-in-law added milk, sugar, and cinnamon and brought it all to a boil until it all mixed together and thickened. Finally, we sampled our chocolate as a warm fondue with pieces of banana and strawberries. Absolutely delicious.

Laguna Azul

After waiting out the rain and spending the morning slowly swinging in the hammock, I spent the first part of the day relaxing at the Laguna Azul. Here a mountain stream came out of the forest and formed several natural watering holes. Rock walls and boulders created small rapids and cliffs.

The main pool was three meters deep with a swift current pushing through the water. There was a rope strung across the far side to rest or to pull yourself in. The water was so clear, you could see right to the bottom. Although the sun was out, the water was quite chilly and I took ten minutes to ease my way in. Others jumped right in from the cliff. One of Delfin’s sons showed us where to climb up the rocks to then slide down through the rapids.

The whole area was beautiful, filled with flowers and butterflies. I wandered over the bridge and out to the main river. Then, I took the trail and followed the river back up into the forest. The minerals in the water made it appear turquoise. The forest provided a full canopy and vines dipped into the stream. I might have stayed there forever if my ride hadn’t been leaving.

Bike Trip to Shandia for Planeterra

From near Don Delfín’s house, we took an hour long bike ride to a nearby community. The village of Shandia is a Quichua village of 80-90 families. Here, G-adventures works with the community with a sustainable development project. Through their intinaries around the world, G-adventures gives back to the local communities and supports community projects with their organization, Planeterra.

Our ride went from a bumpy highway to a gravel road. After a quick stop at the local soccer court and a short pause at the river, we continued down a small trail to the village. The foliage surrounded the path and the roots made for a rough ride. On the last stretch, most of us carried our bikes up a steep hill.

In Shandia, G-adventures and Planeterra partner with a community center. One focus of the project trains people in the community to work in the tourism industry. They run a small eco-lodge and have a beautiful garden, kitchen, and meeting area. When we visited, they shared a snack of muchin with us. Muchin is a croquette made with yuca with chicken and an edible fern inside. And, just like at Don Delfín’s house, there was guayusa tea to wash it down.

While in Shandia, the guides also shared with us some of the crops that they grow in the village. As we learned in our chocolate making demonstration, cocoa is an important export in the region. Here, they actually grow the cocoa in two to three years by splicing it into an older plant. Without the splicing, it would take more than ten years for the cocoa to mature enough to harvest. Bananas grow every eight to twelve months and with over 300 varieties in Ecuador, it’s an important produce. Lastly, yuca is  growing everywhere. Depending on the variety, yuca matures in three to twelve months, but they all taste the same. We also saw jackfruit and pineapples growing in the garden.

Medicinal Plants Walk

Our last morning, Don Delfín took us on a walk in his jungle backyard to teach us about the medicinal uses of tropical plants. For the Quichua people, most illnesses come from bad energy. When ill, the process is first to try a home remedy, then visit a shaman, and finally, if all else fails, go to the city doctor.

He introduced us to the leaves of the achiote plant. It’s used for food dye, hair dye and ink for face paint. The leaves are often prepared in a tea for postpartum women to regain their strength. It also serves as a natural penicillin. For example, to cure an ear infection, the plant is warmed and made into drops for the ear.

Another well-known plant from the jungle is ayahuasca. It’s a hallucinogenic plant that awakens the senses, treats bad energy and leads to visions. One prepares for eight days with the shaman that will accompany them on the journey. While taking ayahuasca common symptoms are vomiting, diarrhea and loss of consciousness. Don Delfín cautioned travelers from taking ayahuasca without proper preparation or being with a real shaman.

He also pointed out the pilche, which is a gourd used to make maracas, cups, and coconut bras (as he jokingly modeled).  He then showed us how they use toquilla, a straw-like palm, to make the roofs of their homes. It’s great for the rain because of the small canals that drip away the water.

Another fascinating plant was the walking palm tree. It can move approximately ten centimeters each year to reach the sun light by slowly growing new roots while the old ones die. Their trunks are used to make canoes and blow guns.

Next the barbasco plant contains a toxin in its root which is used for fishing by mashing up the roots with a stone and tossing it in the water. The toxins slow the fish and allow them to be caught more easily. Fishing in this manner  is not dangerous. However, the plant has also been used historically as a poison for suicide in the Kichwa communities.

Lastly, Don Deflín pointed out the now-protected rubber trees. The leaves of the bijao trees were used to cook the dinner the previous evening, and the  pambil leaves are used for serving and saving food. When in the jungle, the huarango tree provides shelter. Both the hurango and the ceibo trees are known for having good energy.

At the river, Don Delfín demonstrated the healing power of stones. As the stones dry, they absorb that bad energy. In the past, they also served as important tools for the Kichwa people for making knives and weapons, as well as providing minerals with unique properties. The river also was used to pan for gold as Don Delfín showed us with his wooden pan. Searching for gold was more common before tourism picked up in the region.

Palm Weevil Larvae

The palm weevil grow from the inside of the chonta tree.  Don Delfín explained that they’re actually quite healthy as they’ve never been in contact with the outside environment. While on our walk, he showed us the chonta tree. Weevils can be purchased at the local market. A small batch cost about 35 cents and we heard they’re quite the delicacie when served as a bocchetta.

Palm weevil larvae can be eaten raw but our group opted to try the fried version. Don Delfín removed their intestines and plopped them in the frying pan. I was told they tasted like bacon or pork. I tried to eat just a little piece, but I just couldn’t. Most of the group enjoyed their crunchy little larvae snack though.

Don Delfín Shares More about Local Life and Kichwa Culture

First, Don Delfín served a round of jungle whiskey, as he began to chat about celebrations in his culture. He played for us a variety of drums used in ceremonies. The drums, traditionally made by men, are made of animal and skin, such as monkey or sloth. Other common instruments include violin and flutes. Commonly, men played the instruments and the women danced.

A party wouldn’t be complete without chicha. Typically women prepared the chicha, a fermented yuca beverage. The yuca was prepared by chewing, spitting and leaving it to ferment. Although, in the highlands, it was more commonly made with corn. Once the chicha ran out, they flipped the pot to show it was empty.  However, as Don Delfín grinned, he explained, a neighbor usually had more. If chicha isn’t your style, he said most parties now usually serve beer.

Talking about marriage, Don Delfín shared that people marry younger here than in the city, around 14 or 15 years is typical. Traditionally marriages were arranged but now it’s much less frequent. As he went into the wedding specifics, he clarified that Kichwa is a culture, not a religion. Many of the people in his area practice Catholicism. The bride and groom are  surrounded by two bridesmaids and two groomsmen for the ceremony. Afterward, a meal is served while seated on the ground to be closer to Pachamama, Mother Earth. Then, everyone enjoys the alcoholic drinks for the party that could last two or three days. In the past, there was no divorce, hence the suicide plant, he mentioned. Now divorce and remarriage do occur.

Like many cultures around the world, many families prefer a son for the birth of their first child. And when a man dies, his oldest son is in charge of the household. Male babies are often given the names of animals and insects while plants and flowers are common names for females. His name, Delfín, means dolphin in English.

Lastly, we asked many questions about the process to become a shaman. Boys begin the process as early as the age of five years old. Elders in the community advise, strengthen and facilitate that the child’s senses are awakened. In the past, shamans were only boys but now girls can participate too. They are taken into the jungle where they connect with the spirits. The process continues for many years as the young shaman meets with priests, learns to heal the sick and performs cleansings.

Goodbye

After our time in the jungle, we said “Ashka pagracho,” thank you very much to our lovely hosts. I really appreciate their kindness and sharing with us their home and culture.

Hot Springs of Papallacta

After our few days of “roughing” it in the jungle, we indulged with an overnight stay at a comfortable hotel in Papallacta. Each hotel room opened to a central outdoor area with several natural springs. For the afternoon, evening, and next morning we alternated between sitting in the hot springs and dining in the restaurant.