Slowing Down in Gili Trawangan
This series of ten posts comes from a three week trip to Indonesia. I traveled to the islands of Java, Bali and Lombok with G-adventures. Along the way, I saw incredible cultural sites, enjoyed delicious foods, met great people, and took in beautiful views. Here’s the story…
Arriving in Gili Trawangan
The Gili Islands are three small islands off the coast of Lombok. It was the perfect place to end our time in Indonesia, with beautiful beaches and a relaxed atmosphere.
We left our hotel in Senggigi early in the morning after breakfast. We stopped at a high viewpoint on the coast on the way where we could see the Gilis out in the distance.
From a small “private harbor,” or basically a driveway with a boatlift, we loaded our bags and our group into two speed boats for the ten minute ride over to the island of Gili Trawangan. Soon we anchored in the shallow, choppy waters on the main street of Gili T and started our snorkeling tour.
Snorkeling Day
Immediately on arrival at Gili Trawangan, we began our snorkeling tour. We had several guides that mostly just loved to swim in the water, play on the boats and party every night on Gili T; and seemed to enjoy every moment. They handed us each a pair of flippers, a mask and a snorkel tube and we were off.
First Stop – Gili Meno
Our first stop was a famous underwater statue called “Nest” which is a circle of 48 life-size figures on the seafloor. The artist used materials to form the statues which, over time, will support and regenerate coral growth, making it a destination for divers to explore.
There were so many boats and snorkelers in this area. You needed to watch out if you didn’t want to catch a flipper to the face. I also focused on staying near Adi, one of our guides. Just follow those yellow flippers.
Next we floated through a vast empty section of dead coral. It certainly made the case for reef-safe sunscreen and responsible boat companies that don’t anchor in coral. The only life we saw in this wide open area was a lone sea turtle hanging out under a rock ledge. It padded around a bit, waiting for us to be gone.
Gili Meno – Turtle Point
Next we stopped again off the shore of Gili Meno. We swam around the edge of the light blue shallow waters and near the drop of a dark underwater ledge where massive sea turtles like to hang around. We saw ten or twelve huge turtles swimming and sleeping.
After a while the water became hazy. Perhaps a boat came through causing waves. I felt unnerved when I couldn’t see. I stayed for one more turtle sighting as it swam into the deep before I headed back to the boat.
Gili Air – Fish Garden
Our last snorkeling stop was the fish garden off of Gili Air. Dozens and dozens of colorful fish swarmed the rocky, sandy area as the boat guys tossed in handfuls of bread. We saw zebra fish with yellow shading, angel fish with long tips on their triangular fins, parrot fish and some with curvy lines and big orange dots to mimic the eyes of larger fish. Lastly, we stopped for lunch on the island of Gili Air before returning to Gili T afternoon.
No cars!
There are no motorized vehicles on Gili Trawangan. From the “harbor” area, Bebez organized us and we loaded our bags into several horse carts. The seating was awkward with the cart’s angle and it felt like you were almost falling out. The horses were skinny and sad from hauling carts all around the island. G-adventures often talked about their efforts to avoid animal cruelty. However, the options were limited and the hotel was located on the other side of the island.
Hotel Aston
We stayed at the very nice Hotel Aston on the far side of the island. A long central pool was flanked by two rows of hotel rooms, each with a balcony or patio. Palm trees and green plants surrounded the pool and swim up bar. The rooms had great showers to get rid of the layers of sand, sweat and sunscreen. They even use desalinated water in the showers.
Biking Around the Island
Since there’s no motorized vehicles on the island, one of the best ways to get around is by bike. Our hotel offered bikes to their guests. I just signed up and they lent me a bike with a basket, a lock and off I went.
I took the seven kilometer path around the outside of the island. The road mostly followed the coast so I had a great view of the ocean the whole time. In some areas, the sand had blown over the path so I needed to walk the bike. One unmarked section separated the foot traffic from the wheeled traffic. Unknowingly I took the wrong way and ended up walking my bike over some sort of retaining wall by the sea. Inferring from the many other bike tracks, I wasn’t the first, nor would I be the last.
The route was beautiful and the trip was a great way to explore the island. I made it back to the hotel in about an hour without any hustle. I took a dip in the pool before moving to the beach for the sunset.
Sunsets on the Beach
Right in front of our hotel, there was a beautiful beach spot to watch the sunset. If you’re early, not even that early, only half an hour or so before sunset, you can get a front row bean bag chair for the sunset. The staff served two-for-one cocktails. I tried the Illusion with sweet mix of vodka, rum, triple sec, pineapple and melon.
The view was incredible. I enjoyed just slowing down and watching the sun dip into the sea. Soon, others appeared. Tonja and Danek arrived. They split from the group after Java and traveled through Bali with another company. Coincidentally we ended outs trips at the same hotel in Gili T. Then, Chloe and Nathan arrived and everyone celebrated Hazel’s birthday on the beach.
Afterward, we moved out little reunion to a small place up the beach for a light dinner.
Slowing Down Around the Island
I know myself, so I know that I’m not good at sitting still. So, for this day, I started with the plan to take a slow lap around the island. After a filling breakfast, I loaded my pack up with sunscreen, water, my Kindle and my journal. Then, I started the lap.
Around two kilometers in, I found a quiet spot on a small wooden dock over the sea. No one else was around so I picked a comfy bean bag and ordered an iced coffee. Happy for a bit of shade and the sound of the waves, I caught up with my journaling. A few stand up paddlers moseyed by and soon the Call to Prayer sounded. I never tired of the view but eventually got the itch to keep moving.
I continued through Bong Beach. Here several beach shacks offered drinks with magic mushrooms and other recreational snacks. There were great views but I continued until I found a place with both a bathroom and shade.
The next stop was Coral Beach. The sand was filled with brightly painted chairs and plenty of trees offered a shady spot. The waves reached the front feet of my recliner. I had a chocolate milkshake at this stop. There actually wasn’t much service once you sat down. Each place tried to pull in customers, maybe to look full, but once you were in, they mostly left you alone.
Next, I strolled through the main strip of the island. Dive shops, hotels and hostels, bars and restaurants lined the street. I sought a quieter location, so I kept moving through the busy area. I found the Paradise Sunset Bar and had a glass of wine at a table with a swing for a seat and a view of the sea. My novel was quite compelling at this point and I was really getting to enjoy this alone time.
Eventually I was ready to return to the hotel and grab a shower. My feet were done with walking in flip flops on the sand. I returned to the beach for another great sunset and the best roasted corn of the trip. Ears of corn were sold for a dollar from the little grill out on the beach. It was a great appetizer before a last dinner in Lombok with the group.
Back to Sanur
After a great night’s sleep and a massive breakfast, it was time to return to the harbor. I walked with Tonya into town while the others went in horse carts. The three kilometer walk was a beautiful goodbye to Gili T.
We had a long wait for the “fast boat” back to Sanur, Bali. It took off about an hour later than anticipated but it was actually the only thing we needed to do today so it wasn’t a problem. First they loaded the luggage and then the people, one by one so everyone passed through a quick foot bath. After a stellar safety video from the early 90s about lifejackets, we were off.
I sat in the back but still got seasick by the time we made it to Bali. The waves splashing over the window looked like it was raining. The people seated on top got completely soaked.
We took a transfer back to the same hotel where we started our time in Bali, Puri Dalem. I spent some time in the garden and had a reflexology massage. For our last dinner, we returned to “Retro” for a goodbye and farewell to our travel companions and our fabulous leader, Bebez.
Next Stop, Singapore!
