Relaxing in Puerto Escondido

Getting to Puerto Escondido

After three busy days in Oaxaca City, Stacie, Amanda and I took an overnight bus through the mountains to the beach town of Puerto Escondido. I’ve heard the ride can be curvy and windy like a rollercoaster, so I took a sleeping pill and was out for the ride. 

We woke up at the ADO bus terminal in Puerto Escondido in the early morning. From there we caught a taxi just a few kilometers down the coast to our AirBnB.

Adorable AirBnB

We stayed in an AirBnB, perfectly named “Las tres casitas” for its three apartments, yoga terrace and garden. On the outside, the earthy green paint blended warmly with the jungle green surroundings. 

Inside, we had two beds and a small kitchen area. The walls were painted with murals of tropical leaves. The host stocked the house with beer in the fridge and coffee on the shelf. We enjoyed lounging in hammocks and rocking chairs outside.

“Las tres casitas” also hosted daily yoga classes on the terrace above one of the rooms. While the teacher wasn’t great, we appreciated the stretching and meditation; the beach relaxation mode has come to fruition. It was a nice perk of staying at the house.

Our location was just perfect. It was a quiet neighborhood and just a two minute walk to the ocean and a fifteen minute walk down the beach to two popular areas. 

Our host, Victoria, was warm and welcoming. She also recommended a hip Thai restaurant where she worked. The place, Lychee, had a relaxed vibe with low wooden tables, bamboo decor and a sandy floor. We enjoyed some green curry and Victoria treated us to a round of mezcals. 

Playa Zicatela

Our first day in Puerto Escondido we went to Playa Zicatela. There were many beachfront restaurants but since we arrived midweek, most were empty. We picked one that served breakfast and ended up staying all day. 

We started with breakfast in the plastic chairs under the jalapas and then moved down to the umbrellas by the beach. After so many busy days in Oaxaca City, we enjoyed just reading, snacking and relaxing  all day.

Literally, we didn’t move until late afternoon when we wandered up the hill to eat dinner.  We popped into a cozy, hip place with great hamburgers, tacos, hummus, beer and wine. We ended the night early and caught the final dip of the sunset from the rooftop of our place. 

Playa Coral

Before heading to the beach, we stopped for brunch on Calle Benito Juarez where we filled up on eggs and coffee. Then, we walked the last few blocks down to Playa Coral. To get to the beach, we had to hike down a sandy path from the road above.

The beach was chill since everyone there also hiked down. There wasn’t any traffic or restaurants and just one small store. 

Playa Coral connects with another beach via a rock outcropping from the hillside. It took some bouldering and walking through the hot sand, but we made it to the other side. The next beach continued further and flatter into the distance.

After that preliminary exploring, we found some shade at Playa Coral under the palm trees. There were a few small groups of friends and families. Most were just relaxing, playing in the waves, listening to music and enjoying the sun.

In the late afternoon, we walked back up the hill. The rocky path wasn’t maintained but it was easy enough to climb. We just took one giant step over the small scorpion guarding the path. 

Bioluminescent Boat Trip

One night we took a night boat tour with Eco Adventures. We drove to the village of Las Negras, about 30 minutes north of Puerto Escondido. Here in the dark lagoon lined with mangroves, in brackish water where the ocean meets the river, occurs the natural wonder of bioluminescent plankton. 

We boated out to the middle of the water, dragging our hands in the wake. The water had a slight glow, more than just the reflection from the moonlit splashes. When the boat stopped, most of the passengers jumped into the water. The guide said there probably weren’t any crocodiles. 

As swimmers treaded water, puffs of light followed their extremities and sparkly clouds surrounded their waving hands and kicking feet. Each plankton emits a small light as a defense mechanism. 

Reaching my hand into the water, I traced sparkly lines and figure eights. I scooped up handfuls of water to see the glimmering specks sparkle in my hands for a moment before sliding back into the lagoon. 

Eventually everyone climbed out of the boat, some still have shiny bits in their swimsuits and hair. Motoring back to the shore, the guide stomped on the floor of the boat. Hundreds of small fish, that normally we wouldn’t be able to see in the dark, radiated out in all directions with the glowing plankton illuminating their trail. 

As amazing as the glowing water was, there are no pictures. Without a fancy camera, the pictures just ended up dark. But, I promise, it was cool.

Playa La Punta

On our last day in Puerto Escondido, we enjoyed a slow morning of coffee and reading books at our AirBnB apartment. Then, we walked twenty minutes down the wide open beach to Playa La Punta. There were few people out and just a few happy dogs playing in the sand.

We had breakfast at a cozy family restaurant. There were a few tables in the sandy floor, tons of jungle plants and a few birds. A young kid took orders while his mom prepared the food in the back kitchen. We shared a pitcher of fresh strawberry water and I had a delicious burrito with chorizo, beans and quesillo. 

We spent the day at a beach restaurant called “El Salvador.” We lounged by the umbrellas enjoying the shade, the sun, cold beer and ocean waves. I read my book, took a nap and had a “relaxing” massage that was quite awful, leaving me with more knots than I arrived with.

After catching the sunset on the open beach, we cleaned up and returned to Playa La Punta for dinner; shrimp dinner at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant and pizza at a hip beachy Italian place.

The next day, we taxied to the small local airport and caught a quick direct flight back to Guadalajara. Thanksgiving break was fantastic.