Outdoor Adventures in Baños – Two Weeks in Ecuador

This post is the first of a five part series, “Two Weeks in Ecuador.” Over spring break, I traveled to the middle of the world with my friend, Stacie. The trip included a one-week session with G-adventures and the other half backpacking around on our own. Thanks for reading and enjoy!

Arriving in Baños

From the Quitumbe bus terminal on the southside of Quito, we traveled almost four hours to the small town of Baños de Agua Santa. Here we enjoyed two days in this haven for outdoor adventurers and nature lovers. The windy road through the mountains was a comfortable ride, while passengers boarded and disembarked in their towns along the way. Ambulant venders hopped on at each stop to offer sodas, chocolates, and sometimes fried chicken with fries.

We arrived in Baños on Palm Sunday. Families filled the central plaza in their Sunday best. Rosy-cheeked kids bounced around and many held their creatively crafted palm frond crosses. Runners from a morning 5k race hung around for the afternoon. The town was full of life and energy with the laughter of children and families filling the streets.

Staying in Baños

From the small bus terminal, we walked five blocks to  La Floresta. Our hotel was set around a beautiful central garden. Two levels framed an outdoor space filled with palms, orchids, and brick paths leading to comfy hammocks. Plants everywhere. Behind the hotel, the mountain background looked over the garden and the basin of the city below.

Lunch at the Mercado

Our trusty guide, Angie, led us to the local market for a true Ecuadorian lunch. The bustling market filled a pavillion. One side contain a colorful collage of fruit, vegetable, meat and flower vendors. The other held dozens of identical tiled stalls creating a busy food court. Each stall had a pair of plastic tables and chairs, with their menu displayed under the clear plastic table covering.

I ordered a plate with llapingachos. These potato patties had cheese inside and are a typical food in this region. The plate was served with chorizo, rice, and a fried egg. Delicious. Our stall was run by a kind woman with a warm smile and her sweet teenage son.  

Swing at the End of the World

In the afternoon, we set off to explore the area. Our first stop was the Casa del Arbol. Our van climbed almost 1,000 meters above the city to the cool mountain air. For a one dollar entry, we played at this magical treehouse. This mountain playground for adults had swings, look outs, stairs with platforms, and balance beans.  Before we left, the clouds cleared up and we had a great view of Mount Tungurahua, one of the active volcanoes in the region.

Everyone lined up for a turn on one of the swings, known as the “Swing at the End of the World.” I was so scared of the ledge that I only swang to the end of the platform, and not the end of the world. Even so, the views from the Casa del Arbol were fantastic.

Pailon del Diablo – Devil’s Cauldron Waterfall

Next stop, we took a hike into nature to see this stunning waterfall. We walked into the forest, down a well-maintained path for those visiting the falls. I got nervous when I saw that we needed to cross two suspension bridges to continue the trail. I waited until the small children and old ladies moved so I would have a clear path to the landing without stopping. If those toddlers could do it, I could probably cross the bridge like an adult, albeit with a little hand holding.

The path continued downward. The stairs and rocks were slippery from the waterfall mist. The water poured out between the two rock walls, plunging into the Devil’s Cauldron below. Such a cool site. After climbing back to the top and surviving the frights from the bridges, we chilled on the boulders on the side of the river with cold beers and fried plantains.

Out and About in Baños

Baños is a busy little touristy mountain town. It’s known for making melcocha, a taffy candy in many flavors. Downtown candy stores specialize in this treat and have a wooden pole where they demonstrate pulling the taffy for passersby.

A walk through the 18th century church showcased the history of miracles performed by the Virgen de Santa Auga. Each mural included text to explain her deeds, such as saving the townspeople from illness, volcanic eruptions and death defying river crossing.

We ate well around Baños. My favorite place was a family owned, hole-in-the-wall serving Venezuelan arepas. I found myself there twice one day. One evening we enjoyed live music in Spanish and English at Cafe Hood. For Sunday evening, we went to a German styled brewery, which was pretty quiet, except for our group. Many small cafes served a basic breakfast for adventurers needing to kick start their day. The Leprechaun Bar offered a full menu with Ecuadorian and international food. Plus they gave a complimentary canelazos, a warm cinnamon cocktail, a local treat for the chilly weather.

Overlook of the Town

Behind the elementary school, there’s a trail leading up to an overlook of the town. The path was mostly empty, except for one elderly gentleman who stopped to chat and pointed me in the right direction. In retrospect, I wish I had worn my tennis shoes but I made it in my Target Toms. The dirt trail had a steady incline but wasn’t too tough.

The view of the city showed the valley with mountains flanking the edges. I spotted many schools, soccer fields, playgrounds, and pools. Clearly this is a town that enjoys their hot springs and outdoor activities. Once at the top, I noticed a parking lot and road down to the town. However, the view is always better when you hiked up for it.

Horseback Riding

While most of our group was out participating in adrenaline rushing activities like canyoning and paragliding, I preferred to keep my feet closer to the ground with a horseback riding tour. I met José in the afternoon and we started with a quick riding lesson, from the rocking chairs on his porch. Then, my young guide, Alexis and I, along with our horses Tormenta and Chiquita, headed out across town.

Out past the cemetary, the road switched from pavement to gravel, and then a dirt path. We followed the twists and turns up the mountainside. Alexis showed me the “bleeding tree” whose bark leaked a bright red sap when cut. He also claimed that it has healing properties for cuts and scars on skin. At the end of the path, we dismounted the horses and sipped  water from the mountain stream. The water had a natural fizz from its journey through the volcanic rocks.

The views on our descent were amazing. The fields seemed to drop off and we were surrounded by the lush, green mountain sides. Across the valley, the layers of the mountains disappeared into the distance. The whole tour was much longer than I anticipated. My knees and hips were feeling it by the time we returned to the stable, but the scenery was worth it.

Natural Hot Springs

Baños has a great, public hot springs, that was just a few blocks from our hotel and right below the signature waterfall. The pools are filled twice a day, so it was best to visit right when it opens and the water is most clean.

Style points at public pools went for the best swim caps. Everyone was required to wear a one, available in many colors at the check-in desk. The warm pool sat just below the towering waterfall. Here the view was the best and the water was bathtub comfortable. The hot pool was too much for me. I didn’t make it past my toes before I was burning. However, we noticed some experts sitting easily in the boiling water and transitioned to the ice cold showers without flinching.

I recommend Baños for anyone looking for outdoor and mountainous adventures. From the town plaza to the mountain tops, this town had so much activity and endless beautiful scenery.