Madrid

(Originally posted June 2011)

Wednesday, June 22nd

I started the morning in Paris and arrived in Madrid in the afternoon. Time to start part two of my summer adventure. I enjoyed the time with my family and am now ready to travel the world with some friends.

Despite the delayed flight, Lara was waiting for me when I came out of baggage claim.  It was so wonderful to reconnect with my old roomie from Mano a Mano 2006.  

My first impression of Spain was the weather, now I get to wear the other half of the clothes in my oversized backpack. It’s HOT!  Lara didn’t hesitate to start the tour and we quickly dropped off my bag, changed clothes and took the metro to el centro. There we met up with her friend, Violeta.  We stopped first for beers at Museo de Jamón, beer for a euro, good deal. Then we walked to the Cathedral de la Almudena and the Palacio Real. In between each landmark, we popped into a little bar for a beer and tapas, small plates of food served with any drink. In Plaza Mayor, I ate my first bocadillo, a Spanish sandwich. I was quite confused for the ‘bocadillo de tortilla‘ sounded like carbohydrate overload. Turns out that a tortilla here is egg and potato rather than the Mexican version I was picturing, very tasty.

Continuing the tour, we stopped for another beer and to step on kilometro cero, the center point from which all Spanish highways measure. I got my exercise as we then hiked to lavapies to meet Lara’s roommates and friends at Habibi, a Lebanese restaurant. After a Cuban bar for mojitos and an after hours discoteca called “Morocco” we were exhausted and came home as the sun was rising.

Thursday, June 23rd

This country runs at the right pace. Lara and I set off to see the sights of Madrid, stopping every few streets for a cerveza and a bite to eat. With most drinks ordered, customers receive a plate of tapas, a little snack to go with your beer like a plate of olives, chorizo, potatoes served with different sauces, a sandwich, etc. We visited the Plaza de Espana and the Templo de Debod.

In the afternoon, we stopped for take out and had a picnic lunch in Parque de Retiro, equivalent to New York’s Central Park with rivers, lakes, art exhibitions and gardens. We took advantage of la hora gratuita at the Prado to do a speed tour of the most well-known masterpieces.

The major excitement of the day was reuniting with Ellen. For the last year, Ellen has lived just a few blocks from Lara in Atocha. Together we took the metro to el centro to meet Ellen’s school friends for a drink.

Madrileños were celebrating (beyond the everyday enjoyment of life) something related to the summer equinox and/or San Juan. Everyone told a different story but the gist I gathered was that everyone writes out a list of wishes for the year. To ensure that wishes come true, one throws the paper into a bonfire then runs and jumps over it. The plaza was packed with thousands of people and many bonfires, we choose a medium-sized bonfire to ensure wish-granting without burning our skirts.

This city is alive 24 hours a day. We jumped the bonfire at midnight and then walked around the city, packed as if it were rush hour. At all hours friends are chatting at patio bars and cafes and families are walking around the streets. Spaniards and tourists are hanging out, dancing, drinking and eating on every street corner, relaxed and enjoying life.

Friday, June 24th

Today I joined Ellen and her friends for a lunch hosted by the English director at her school, Colegio Sagrada Familia. I got a glimpse of Ellen’s wonderful life here, taking the bus to her school, meeting some of her colleagues and enjoying a delicious lunch with her boss and his family. We had a typical Spanish lunch which consisted of appetizers, two courses, dessert and coffee and lasted for more than four hours.

In the evening, we ran some errands and walked around town (seriously, a lot of walking here). We had milkshakes and Spanish tortillas for dinner and actually made it to bed by midnight, a rarity here in Madrid but wait until you hear about our day tomorrow before considering us a couple of party-poopers.

Saturday, June 25th

Our morning started off bright and early with a metro trip, walk to the next station and an hour long bus trip up north to Manzanares el real with Ellen’s friends, Dave and Erik. Our hike began with a twenty minute walk through the pueblo to the trailhead. The national park is mountainous covered in pine trees with a chilly river tumbling down through the rocks.

We had a picnic lunch before heading up to the top of the mountain, a strenuous climb despite having considered myself in decent physical condition. My calves were burning and I was huffing and puffing but the view from the top (and every step along was the way) was worth it.  We came over the ridge and looked down over the pueblo. Far into the hazy distance, we could see four towers of the Madrid skyline.

On the way down we stopped for a quick dip in the cold mountain stream and again in the pueblo for a cold beer and croquetas before taking the bus back.  (p.s., the view from the bus stop was an old castle, no views like that in Minneapolis). Later, despite our exhaustion, we got dressed up for a night out on the town: mojitos, tapas, music and dancing.

Sunday, June 26th

Sunday mornings are Sunday mornings everywhere, a slow start with coffee, eggs and potatoes for breakfast. In the afternoon, we meet Ellen’s friend at the Rastro market.  We wandered through street after street of flea-market style stalls with art, clothes and jewelry. We attempted to stay cool in the shade but there’s no hiding from 107 degree heat.  

I love that Madrid has at least five bars with patios on every street. A beer, a snack, some shade, a light breeze (if you’re lucky) and great people watching, it’s a good way of life. Any time of day, in the afternoon, in the evening, at night, no wonder Ellen and Lara love it here.

Seriously, I could live here, it’s great. The city has a vibe of both European history and classiness with a fun, laid-back atmosphere of Latin America. Madrid is always moving and playing, with the slick public transportation system and an enjoyment of walking, one can really fall in love with this city in just a few days.

Monday, June 27th

Ellen’s Graduation Day!

Over the past few days, it has been so amazing to see Ellen’s life here, meet her friends, live in her apartment and see her in action with her colleagues and classmates.  It’s clear she’s comfortable, happy and completely at home in Madrid. I know we all miss her in Minneapolis but she belongs here too. Ellen is Madrid.

We took the train to Alcalá, outside of Madrid where Ellen’s University is located. There’s a tour of the town for families and friends of the graduates but no one seems to care as they’re walking in heels down cobblestone roads, trying to find shade from the 108 degree heat and can’t hear or understand the coordinator’s attempt at local history.

We celebrated Ellen and the other graduates with a lunch we will not soon forget filled with loud voices, different opinions and strong personalities.  I’ll leave you to Ellen’s reenactment as it’ll be much more entertaining than my interpretation.

In the evening, we returned to Madrid and Ellen’s friends came over for wine and a night of reminiscing about of their year in learning, exploring and having fun together in Spain.

Tuesday, June 28th

Ellen and I took the train to Toledo, a town thirty minutes by train out of Madrid where Haley studied a semester in college. We walked up to the center of the town through five hundred year old streets and remnants of old Roman walls. We had a full lunch and a visit to the Greco museum. We had time for some shopping and to see the cathedral before walking back to the train station. It’s wasn’t until we made it back to the train station did we realized the city has escalators and a city bus up and into el centro. But, hey, it’s only 108 degrees today, it’s all a part of the adventure, right?

In the evening, I hung out with Lara.  I’ve already grown accustomed to the evening routine of beer and tapas.  

Wednesday, June 29th

This morning, I took the took bus to pick up Jackie at the airport. Ready to start the adventure, she shrugged off her jet lag and we set out for a one-day speed tour of Madrid. After only a week, I have been promoted to tour guide in training as Ellen was busy packing up her apartment for the trip and her move into a new apartment in the fall.

Jackie and I toured the Reina Sofia Art Museum.  Picasso’s Guernica blew me away. I was completely drawn into the intensity of the painting and returned to that section of the gallery three times. Next Jackie and I wondered through Madrid’s streets and plazas were I introduced her to beer and tapas routine.  

For our last night in Madrid, we set off for el centro with Ellen’s friends. Now the group of us that will continue our travels together (Ellen, Jackie, Kelly and I) are complete. For Ellen it was a night of goodbyes to close friends and for all of us the start of the next adventure.