Laos

(Originally posted October 2016)

Day 20 – Hanoi, Vietnam to Vientiane, Laos   

After the late night, I slept until 9:00 before wandering down for the last of the hotel breakfast. We did some last minute shopping around Hanoi at the Dong Xuan market. We packed the last few Vietnamese souvenirs into our rucksacks and loaded up for the airport.  

The Nội Bài International Airport was a stark contrast with the busy, historic city center with its clean, modern appearance. After check in and security, the international fast food chains called our name and everyone split up. Our flight to Laos was fairly short, only fifty minutes of flying time once we got off the ground.  

The Laos officials offer visas upon arrivals. We waited in a short line, presented our passports, photos, exit-stamp from Vietnam, some cash in USD and were granted tourist visas. One in our group, George, a young British traveler, ran into major problems when the officials noticed his passport was missing pages. He was denied entry and held until he was flown back to Vietnam. Then, from Vietnam, he was held by security and sent on the first plane back to Heathrow to expedite a new passport. It was a costly, avoidable and dumb mistake but he was able to return to the trip a few days later when we arrived in Chang Mai.

We arrived after dark to the hotel in Vientiane. Quite hungry, we sprinted in the pouring rain to a fancy but local restaurant. Exhausted after a day of traveling, losing one of the bunch and a late dinner, we went to bed.  

Day 21 – Vientiane, Laos to Vang Viene, Laos   

We had an early morning start to accomplish a quick tour of the city in tuk tuks before continuing to our next city. We piled in and visited the main points of interest in Vientiane. Our first stop was Haw Pha Kaeo, a temple built in 1565 to house the Emerald Buddha. Since then, it has been rebuilt several times and houses many other Buddha statues around the exterior.

Next we visited the Patuxai, a war monument that resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, France, however it is typical Laotian design. The monument was constructed in honor of those who died in the struggle for independence from France. It was a little nerve racking, climbing the stairs to the top, but the view was worth it.

Our main attraction was the Pha That Luang temple, also known as the “Great Stupa.” First built in the third century, this national monument is even featured on the currency. The temple contains a central enormous stupa with a perimeter of smaller, golden stupas. At the monastery next to the temple, a large group of monks worked on a construction project, draped in their orange robes. Their monastery also included a large, outdoor statue of the Reclining Buddha. We also walked through their pavilion area, with detailed murals on the ceiling and the columns.  

Our last and very meaningful stop was at COPE, “Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise.” This organization’s mission is to support people with disabilities in Laos, particularly those affected by the United States bombing missions during the Vietnam War. Laos stands out as one of the most heavily bombed nations. According to COPE, over half a million bombing missions related to the Vietnam War were conducted over Laos, equivalent to a bombing mission every eight minutes for nine straight years. They work to provide prosthetic limbs to amputees and other supports to improve the quality of life of those disabled by bombs that continue to explode decades later. Learning about this part of history and how it continues to affect Laos was an essential part in developing our understanding and sensitivity as we begin our travels through the country.

Back at the hotel we loaded into our bus for the four-hour bus ride to Vang Viene. While in Laos, the government requires that an additional local guide accompany us so Lieng will travel with us for the next six days to the Thai border. He explained more background about Laos on the ride. The ethnic groups vary from lowlands to highlands, where Hmong people live. Three quarters of the population work in agriculture with no government health care or social security. Most Lao are Buddhist along with Animalists. The country is communist with one political party and he describes that overall Laos is a very peaceful country.

We arrived in Vang Viene, a small town crawling with backpackers and outdoor activities. The main strip of town is full of bars, restaurants, outfitters for eco-adventure and guesthouses. We arranged our tour for the next day and went to dinner at a restaurant with booths extending out on a pier over the river with tables where you sat on the floor. Afterward we hit an Irish bar, drank Lao whiskey while playing beer pong and watching Olympic track and field.

Day 22 – Vang Viene, Laos   

After breakfast, we loaded into the back of two trucks to take us to the starting point for our day of outdoor adventure. About twenty kilometers up the river, we unloaded and got our kayak gear ready. I buddied up with Annalise as she felt nervous about her first kayak trip. The first stop was literally across the river, just down 200 meters. One kayak capsized and another overshot the stop. Our guides had their work cut out for them.

We took a short hike through a local village, zigzagging through the rice paddies with the towering rocky cliffs above. After trudging through the muddy paths and climbing over the cattle fences, we arrived at a pool of water where the stream came out of the rock face. We actually went inner tubing into the cave that was barely big enough to fit with us lying back in the tubes.

We pulled ourselves along a towrope, guiding our way with the headlamps on our helmets. The low, drippy ceiling and enclosed space put me a little out of my comfort zone but the cave was pretty intriguing. Our lunch was served in the little picnic area by the pond. We opened the banana leaves filled with rice and ate BBQ kebabs with chicken, pineapple and veggies.

The kayaking down the river was amazing; swift moving water with occasional rapids. Several of the boats flipped but my paddling skills came back to me and we made it through dry. I even hopped up on the back and bounced along down some of flat sections. The view from the river was beautiful with the massive rock faces to the right. We stopped for a break at a riverside bar with volleyball and platforms to layout. After several more kilometers of paddling we pulled up back in the town right near our guesthouse as the clouds and rain moved in.

Later that afternoon, I stopped for a massage. It was brutal but felt great after paddling all day. For dinner we returned to the Irish Pub as some in the group were craving dishes from back home.

Day 23 – Vang Viene, Laos to Luang Prabang, Laos   

We crammed into the bus for the long journey from Vang Viene to Luang Prabang through the winding mountain roads of Laos. Part way into our nine-hour trip, we took a break at a peak for the view of the valley below. The clouds covered most of scenery but we could tell how high we had climbed. The restrooms facing the valley even had a wall of glass windows so a visitor could have a nice view at all times.

The curvy roads continued through small villages, built along the two-lane road. The small wooden buildings contained homes, little stores and produce stalls. Clothes were drying on lines and kids were playing along the road. The trees were lush green. While the twisting road kept me from my Kindle all day, I enjoyed watching the landscape on the way to Luang Prabang.

We arrived in our new town in the midafternoon, enough time to get out and explore a bit before night. We had a brief walking tour of the town’s main strip. Luang Prabang is a calm town with a partially French architecture and has many guest houses, shops and tour places for the backpackers coming through. I sampled mini-coconut pancake bites, served in a banana leaf; sweet and squishy.  

In the late afternoon we scaled the 355 steps up Mount Phousi. From the top we had a 360 ° view of the town, countryside and the Mekong River. We had hoped to watch the sunset but I had the timing all wrong. Instead we peeked into the old temple, built in 1804. One family was worshipping and another woman tossed sticks to read fortunes using the corresponding numbers. Descending the hill on the other side, we passed numerous additional shrines and temples. At two points we saw the Buddha statues representing each day of the week.  

In the evening we ate at an outdoor restaurant. However the meal was a little uncomfortable with the occasional biting ants falling out of the leaves from the recent rain shower. Before returning to the hotel we took a stroll through the night market and bought a plethora of Lao souvenirs. My favorite gifts that I brought home were metal spoons and doves recycled from the metal of the bombs dropped on Laos by the United States. These gifts were a special way to give back to the community while giving the gift of peace to my family and friends.  

Day 24 – Luang Prabang, Laos   

My alarm went off before 5:00am and I was out the door. This morning we attended the daily giving of alms to the monks. While this is local tradition, we were told that tourists are welcome to respectfully participate. The ceremony is thousands of years old and continues today as two hundred monks depart from their temples to receive their daily meal. We arrived at sunrise, purchased baskets of sticky rice and other food items, took off our shoes and kneeled on the cloth path. Slowly the lines of monks dressed in their traditional orange robes walked down the lines with their metal container for collection hung over their shoulder. This was one of the most special moments of the trip for me, to have the opportunity to participate in the tradition of giving food to others.  

After the almsgiving we meandered through the morning market. While the night market has many items for tourists, the morning market is mostly for locals. The endless stalls had all types of fruits and vegetables, many that I didn’t even recognize. There were meats, fish, eels and crabs; either in buckets or strapped into loops with reeds.  

Mid-morning we took a trip out of town to the Kuang Si waterfall. The van drove around twisty roads, around tiered rice paddies and past an elephant sanctuary. Just past the entryway, we hung out and looked at the moon bears in the rescue center. The bears were playfully fighting for the preferred seat in the hammock, while others were lazily sleeping and some little cubs were wrestling. The rescue center on the path to the waterfalls is a good reminder of the importance of socially responsible traveling as people, animals and environments are often taken advantage of and mistreated in the name of tourism.

We started at the bottom of the falls, as one turquoise blue lagoon poured into the next, creating a leveled series of pools. Continuing on the path, from pond to pond, we eventually came to the massive falls. We crossed the bridge and felt the refreshing mist from the cascading water. The climb to the top was intense, grabbing roots and stepping up rock ledges. The incline was worth it! At the top, we crossed several small wooden bridges and logs, crossing the stream about to plummet over the cliff. The walk down was easier on the other side of the falls, including a part of the stairs flanking the water, splashing down. After the hike, the group swam and waded in the chilly water. There were noticeably more tourists as the day went on. People from all over the world were enjoying the falls and people watching those from different cultures.

In the late afternoon, I had a snack of crepes and a milkshake from a food stall on the street. I visited the National Museum. Having forgot my long pants and long sleeved shirt, the docent handed me “lender” tie-on skirt and shirt. Ready for the fashion show! The museum showed the former residences of the king and queen and gifts they had received from other countries. Then I stopped by the Ethnology Museum. The small hall of exhibits was classy, very well done, showing the Hmong cultures, clothes and weaving. I was the only visitor at the time, so I had a moment to enjoy a lovely conversation with the cashier about the Hmong in Wisconsin and Minnesota.

For dinner, I walked to town and dined with just one other in the group. We decided to invite a solo traveler to dine to our table and we truly appreciated a whole evening of listening to his experiences and expertise in the medical work of Luang Prabang. He was a visiting nurse from Australia and part of a team charged with starting up the new children’s hospital, eventually leading the local team to a self-sufficient staff. He shared with us so much about East vs. West medicine, access to preventative care and limitations with resources and geography.

Day 25 – Mekong River, Laos   

I awoke again this morning before 5:00 to return to the giving of alms to the Buddhist monks. For me, the experience of the previous morning sincerely connected with my values of traveling and learning from others.  

We packed up and grabbed “take-away” breakfast from the hotel and took the bus to the dock of the Mekong River. We boarded our own “long boat” for just our group for the next two days. The boat is very long and narrow filled with bench seat tables. There’s a bathroom on board and room for everyone to lie out and enjoy the scenery along the river. We would ride the boat for the next nine hours to our overnight stop.

Lush green rolling hills and occasional rocky mountains lined the river. The brown water moved with the current as our longboat continued its journey. Cattle cooled themselves in the muddy water. During the day, we played cards, read books, caught up on journaling and took several naps.

Moving into the late afternoon our boat pulled over onto a sandy bank. A young boy spotted us from a tree and skipped down the path to greet us. With simple overnight bags we followed the boy into the village. The village contained almost seventy families, both Hmong and Khmer. G-adventures runs a homestay in this community, providing small groups with an opportunity to appreciate local life while supporting the community.  

The village contained wood and thatched houses, some on stilts, varying with the different cultures in the community. Drying clothes waved in the air and some families peeked out of doorways to welcome the visitors. The children ran between the houses and tagged along with our group. Each house had animals roaming around: pigs, goats, chicks and dogs. The way of life in the village resembled Copales and rural communities around Latin America.

Our group paused outside the school for our guide to share more about life in the community. He explained the benefits and challenges to village life in terms of education, health care, economics and globalization. The children ran around, playing games and eventually followed us back to the G-adventures house, holding hands. We played together despite the complete language barrier, making paper airplanes, throwing the tennis ball back and forth and braiding hair. Dinner was local cuisine with a potato curry soup, rice, green beans and watermelon for dessert.

After a hilarious game of charades, we separated across a few houses for our overnight accommodations. Three of us stayed in the loft of the house across the path. After a visit to the pit latrine, just passed the smoky kitchen hut, we crawled under the mosquito netting for an early night. Startlingly, a scorpion crawled out from my pillow. The host woman responded to our squeals and came up the ladder to take care of it. It was a night of restless sleep, thinking about other potential scorpions and avoiding mosquitos with socks and a scarf, even with the heat.