Climbing Kilimanjaro  

Tanzania, July 2017

June 29th

After months of training and two long flights, I arrived in Moshi, Tanzania. Feeling jet lagged but excited to start the new adventure, I went down to the hotel breakfast. One or two at a time, our group accumulated and started to get to know each other over several cups of delicious Tanzanian coffee. Together we ventured into Moshi for the afternoon, smelling the grilling food and exhaust of old, diesel vehicles, and we wandered the streets bustling with negotiating shoppers and street vendors. Our team of g-adventure hikers included Nancy and Maud from Canada; Steve, Pat and Gina from the US; Alex from New Zealand; Sally, Rachel and Shaun from Australia; and Holly and Ross from England.

In the evening, we gathered for our first team meeting with our Gerald, our head CEO, the g-adventures acronym for “Chief Experience Officer”. He was our lead guide for the trek up Kilimanjaro.

We went through all the details and logistics. We reviewed the route, necessary gear, altitude sickness expectations and general trekking plans. With all the questions being asked and answered, the butterflies crept up in my belly and I acknowledged that I was now officially nervous. Gerald checked over my gear with a “Hakuna matata” to everything. Our groups dined together, everyone excitable with the expected pre-trek jitters. Going over my final packing that night, I noticed my hands actually shaking as I organized the last of the stuff into my bag. Needless to say, between jet lag and nerves, I got no sleep.

June 30th – Day 1

Feeling much more anxious than I anticipated, the last minute minor decisions became almost crippling but before breakfast our bags were packed, weighed and loaded onto the bus. After much back and forth, I decided to, yes, take the Diamox for altitude sickness from the start, and to, yes, leave my passport in the hotel safe, rather than hike with it and, sure enough, I located the water bottle that I lost. Phew. I was as ready I could be to hit the road.

From the hotel to the trailhead, we drove a few hours and made several stops along the way. First towards Moshi for last minute supplies like Snickers and batteries. Next towards Arusha to pick up the crew of CEOs and g-fighters, then to the park ranger station for permits, check-in and to the weigh the gear. As we drove closer, Kilimanjaro didn’t seem so bad, until the clouds parted and we saw the real snow-covered peak towering from above. At the trailhead we met the other CEOs, or guides, Iddi, William, Adnan, Isaack and Andrew. Eventually, we departed from the Lemosho Gate for an afternoon hike into our first campsite.

On each day’s hike to the next campsite, we followed one of the team CEOs at what initially felt like an incredibly slow snail’s pace. As they say, “Pole pole” in Swahili, slowly. Walking slowly, we acclimatized to the altitude, managed trekking with decreasing oxygen and eventually, pole pole, we could make it to the summit. At first, it seemed ridiculous to walk so slowly, but as the days went on, I learned how knowledgeable our guides were in insisting on this pace and trusted in their experience of getting hikers to the top.

The first day hike took us through the mountain forest ecosystem. We were surrounded by green plant life all around, tall trees with leafy boughs providing shade. Jungle vines and moss hung from the branches above and our ears listened for bird and monkey calls.

Upon reaching the first camp site, we registered, snapped the first of many group pictures at the sign and settled into camp. I hadn’t anticipated such a level of service while camping and we were each greeted by a g-fighter, a member of the crew, that would haul our gear during the trek. At camp, the sleeping tents, along with a kitchen and mess tent were set up, dinner was being prepared, and we snacked on popcorn and sipped coffee and hot cocoa. This wasn’t camping, this must be more along the lines of “glamping.” The first evening we dined on fresh cucumber soup, chicken or fish, fruit salad and potatoes and veggies in a typical Tanzanian sauce.  

Campsite: Mti Mkubwa Camp

Elevation: 2650 meters (8,694 ft)

Temperature: Upper 40s, Fahrenheit

July 1st – Day 2

What a pleasant awakening on our first morning of the trek! Rolland and Jabrika, the two chef assistants, greeted us with a ‘knock, knock, good morning” and cup of hot coffee or tea. The chilly morning air always made it a challenge to leave the warmth of the sleeping bag. Then we indulged in an enormous breakfast of hot millet porridge, eggs with veggies and sausage.  Throughout the trek, they said we needed more calories for the hike and the altitude, even as our appetites diminished with the ascent.

Our hike, led by Isaack, continued at the same, pole pole, slow pace as the previous day. We started through the mossy forest and soon moved into the arid ecosystem with rocky trails lined with shrubs and a noticeable absence of trees. Our leaders shared with us the names of all the plants and flowers, along with teaching us the numbers up to ten in Swahili. We paused in a low valley to refill our water in a mountain stream, purified before our arrival as Sadam and the g-fighters flew past us on the trails over and over again.

We climbed a steep hill, pole pole, and stopped for boxed lunches with a panoramic view of where we’d come from and the clouds coming in below us. Thirty minutes before reaching camp, we turned a corner and there’s a great view of Kilimanjaro, still quite far in the distance. Beautiful, snow-capped mountain, I recall thinking, “Are we seriously going up that?”  

Our camp at Shira 1 was surrounded by low shrubs and rocky terrain. Without the trees, this site would feel much chillier overnight than the previous, even if the g-fighters were still walking around in flip flops. After resting up, kicking off the boots and settling in, we walked out to meet our fellow hikers approaching. On day two of hiking, we parted into two groups. We welcomed them in and took our picture together at the sign. While on the trek, our leaders accommodated our personal needs in having a successful hike. While most of us stayed together, one or two could take a slower pace and have more frequent rests with another guide to successfully complete the daily hikes.

Each evening we met with our team of guides and hikers after dinner. We checked in regarding how each person was feeling, how much liquid we drank, and measured our heart rate and oxygen levels with the pulse oximeter. Gerald and the team reviewed the hiking details for the next day. Today’s dinner was celery soup, chapati and a stew with peas and carrots. I wondered if I was feeling the altitude a little but the dull headache went away with a round of Ibuprofen and didn’t return for the rest of the trek.

We admired the view Kilimanjaro lit up with the colors of sunset and later the expansive night sky filled with all the stars unseen with the city lights.

Campsite: Shira 1

Elevation: 3610 meters (11,844 feet)

Temperature: Low 40s

July 2nd – Day 3

Peeking out of the flap for the cup of warm coffee this morning, I saw the frost clinging to the tent and nearby rocks, further in the distance stands Kilimanjaro, strong and tall. We washed our faces with warm water, rolled up sleeping bags and packed the backpacks. Gearing up for today’s hike we downed eggs, sausage, crepes, toast and orange wedges, along with another cup of warm coffee. From there, the g-fighters crew did the rest with dismantling camp, loading the gear and beating us to the next camp site. These young men were in absolutely incredible shape and well-acclimated to the mountain life in order to do such a challenging job, all while having an upbeat energy, singing and joking along the way. Much respect.

Today’s short hike took us across the Shira Plateau, crossing a few streams and along the trail flanked with a few evergreen shrubs and pebbly soil. Fewer plants survive at this altitude and the lush green foliage has been replaced with dark green and earthtones.

Our campsite at Shira Two sat completely above the clouds. I can’t believe this view, of being above the clouds, looking down on them as if in an airplane but we’re standing at the campsite. The peak of Mt. Meru, seventy kilometers away, also towered through the clouds but I was quickly informed that its peak was over a kilometer shorter than the Uhuru peak of Kilimanjaro that we would attempt in a few days.

Since our trek was short today, we had hot lunch at the Shira Two site; hot leek soup and pasta with meat sauce and cheese. With an early arrival, our guides led us further up the mountainside for an acclimatization hike, slowly walking a few hundred meters of additional altitude before returning to a lower level to sleep overnight and adapt. The altitude up here can seriously affect hikers, sending many back down without reaching the summit. Our guides were so knowledgeable about how to acclimatize and kept vigilant for early warning signs of altitude sickness.

When we returned to the campsite, all of the g-fighters crew were gathered around, singing and dancing. They seemed to have a blast with endless songs with such rhythm and spirit, in Swahili that we didn’t need to understand to enjoy the moment and to feel the energy. Their lively songs lasted more than half an hour until Gerald cut them off for a moment of team introductions before we started shivering from the cooling evening temperatures.

We dined on warm sweet potato soup, kabobs with steak, carrots and peppers with a veggie sauce and rice. The food on this trip was absolutely amazing, especially considering high elevation cooking, camp stoves and needing to carry all the food and equipment up the mountain. The mess tent was filled with the laughs of our team, great camaraderie among the fellow hikers and the leaders. I felt so happy that I made the choice to do the hike and very fortunate to participate alongside such a warm, fun-loving and supportive team.

Campsite: Shira 2

Elevation: 3,850 meters (12,631 feet)

Temperature: Around 40 Fahrenheit

Day 4 – July 3rd

I started the day with two Happy Birthday songs, one in English from Rachel and Shaun from the tent next door and another in Swahili from Sadam on the way to the mess tent, along with big hugs and birthday wishes from the crew before we started the day’s hike.

The day’s hike first took us from the moorland into the alpine desert up to the Lava Tower at 4,600 meters (15,092 feet) and after a hot lunch, down to the Barranco camp. At this peak, many in the group felt symptoms of the altitude with some headaches and nausea. Once into the alpine desert, all we saw in the barren landscape was rocks, a few white Everlasting flowers and Golden Daisy bush.

Again the g-fighters sailed past us, over and over again on today’s hike. Not only did they race past us to set up the kitchen and mess tent for a high altitude lunch, they also reached the campsite and set everything up again before our arrival. All along the trail when we passed, we exchanged words of “Jambo, mambo vipi? Poa, poa/How’s it going? Good, good” or an even better response, “Poa kichizi kama ndizi ndani ya friji/Cool as a banana in the refrigerator.”

The descent from Lava Tower to Barranco camp was slow going, stepping down the sometimes loose rocks, careful not to twist an ankle or a knee. Our group hiked down into the clouds. The flora expanded with more of the white and yellow flowers and many giant groundsels or senecios, somewhat of a cross between cactus and palm trees. We arrived at Barranco camp to the g-fighters waiting for us on the trail and the tents already set up. There were many other groups sharing this site because the other Kili hiking routes are combining here.

From our campsite, I had my first look at the Barranco wall. The vertical rock wall of switchbacks overlooking the valley below and the dreaded crossover steps nicknamed “kiss the rock” terrified me more at this point than the summit. My anxiety about heights appeared and I teared up. Talking to our team and the CEOs about the next morning’s hike, I cried with anxiety about the wall. Thanks to the words of such a supportive team, I knew that together, I could conquer the wall the next morning.

After dinner, the rest of the group completed their hike and we were all together as a team. The g-fighter teams had a birthday surprise for me. The chef delivered a birthday cake with my name and Kilimanjaro in jelly frosting and the team of g-fighters sang another upbeat melody. I thanked and hugged everyone for such a special birthday and cut the cake into thirty-some pieces for the whole team. What a memorable birthday!  

Campsite: Barranco

Elevation: 3,900 meters (12,795 feet)

Temperature: Around 40 Fahrenheit

Day 5 – July 4th

Leaving the next morning, I already had tears in my eyes as we left camp and approached the Barranco Wall. Crossing a glacial stream, we began the ascent. Looking up, I only saw the height and the cliffs as the figures of hikers and porters above me grew smaller and smaller in the distance. I was relieved that I shared my fears with the group the night before because they were very supportive, with reassuring words from my fellow hikers and the strong handholds and clear directions from our guides, Gerald and William. We scrambled and climbed up the rock wall as I held back tears, tried not to peer over the edge and reached around the perilous ledge to “kiss the rock”, all the while, porters with huge packs scurried past us.

Fortunately as we rested at the top, a foggy cloud had rolled in, blocking my view of the valley down below. The middle section of our hike was mostly flat as we circled around to the eastern side of Kilimanjaro where we would later summit. Once we reached the campsite, we had to climb several hundred meters down, cross the stream and hike back up the steep other side.

On day five the chef received a resupply of food. Four porters met the g-fighters crew after a two day hike up a more direct route. Day after day, I continued to be amazed by this full-service “camping” experience and how much effort goes into getting twelve foreigners up to the top of this darn mountain. I’m sure that other groups are lovely, but I felt fortunate to be with this crew of energy, experience and support.

After our evening feast of veggie soup and a beef stew over rice, Gerald sat us down for a history lesson of the mountain. The peak was first summited by German Hans Meyer and Tanzanian Kinyala Lauwo in 1889 after several attempts. Isaack shared with us about the the Maasai tribe in Tanzania, Uganda and Kenya with their decreasingly nomadic lifestyle; their unique cultural practices; and their wealth system based on their cattle. They also shared how the trek now compares to when they began a decade ago; with climate change leading to less snow and smaller glaciers, and with more regularization from the national park service leading to better safety conditions for porters and less trash on the trails and campsites.

Before crawling into the tents, our team looked down the mountain where the clouds had cleared. Far in the distance, we saw the tiny twinkling lights of Moshi and Arusha, just like overlooking a city at night from an airplane. I was impacted by this view realizing how high above our starting point we were now standing.

Campsite: Karanga

Elevation: 3,995 meters (13,107 feet) Temperature: Upper 30s, Fahrenheit

Day 6 – July 5th

It was so chilly in the morning that I saw my breath when I brushed my teeth, albeit with a great view of Moshi down below and Kili behind me. After packing up, we slowly hiked towards Barafu Camp, or the base camp, before the summit. From here to the top, we exited the alpine desert and moved into an arctic ecosystem. The landscape is all boulders, rocks and dirt; no plants and animals survive here since the oxygen is noticeably thinner. I caught myself getting winded moving from my tent to the mess tent too fast.  

We arrived at the site before noon and after a hot lunch, we were sent to our tents to rest up for the night’s summit attempt. I napped a little, knowing that I’d need the rest and strength for the final trek. I didn’t feel as nervous as I anticipated, must have had enough nerves the night before we set off or used them all on the Barranco Wall, but I felt strong, ready and confident going into summit night. Our leaders took our final readings on the pulse oximeter after an early dinner and we went over the final details for the summit. Then, we attempted to sleep for a couple of hours before departing.

Campsite: Barafu

Elevation: 4,673 meters (15,331 feet)

Temperature: Low 30s, Fahrenheit

Day 7 – Summit – July 6th

We woke up, packed up and started the trek before midnight. I put fresh batteries into my headlamp, stashed some Snickers and Clif bars into my pack and joined the team. We felt strange combinations of cold and overheating; nervousness and eagerness to start moving; and excitement and anxiety that summit night was final upon us. So far on the trail I hadn’t felt the effects of altitude sickness and with my fingers crossed, I hoped that this luck would continue as we increased the last 1200 vertical meters, up to 5,895 meters above sea level.

I couldn’t see much more than the area illuminated by my headlamp in front of me. Hour after hours we walked slowly, slowly up the final stretch of trail. Our rest stops were brief, only long enough to attempt to take a deep breath, maybe a sip of water or bite of chocolate. While feeling exhausted, a longer pause would let the cold further set in, so it was better to keep moving. The temperatures reached their coldest between 3:00 and 5:00 in the morning, and I appreciated the five layers of long underwear and snow pants and the thick winter coat I was wearing and the little shaken-up hand warmers in my gloves and boots. Our guides and a few g-fighters kept close watch on everyone’s status; helping with gloves and gear, asking how we were doing to which I was able to reply “still strong” while slowly pushing forward and upward. The trail seemed to continue upwards forever. I looked up and saw the rows of headlamps high in the sky, unsure at times which were lights from headlamps and which were stars in the night sky.

The crew’s energy and stamina were remarkable during this final climb. They have summited hundreds of times and seemed hardly affected by the cold, altitude and lack of oxygen. We may not have made it, if not for their endless singing and joking around, even if my Swahili skills were limited to repeating “Tutafika kileleni/We will get to the peak” over and over. The guides and crew helped carry packs, lent a hand or an arm for support, imparted encouraging words and even provided a warm armpit for a hiker’s fingers in early stages of frostbite. Did I mention that our team of g-fighters were amazing?

The team reached Stella Point as the sun rose behind us. That first peak and the arrival of daylight was a huge relief, we had accomplished the hardest part of the climb. As cold and exhausted as we felt, we knew we could complete the hike. The last hour of trudging along is mostly flat, just 150 meters more incline, but incredibly challenging with the lack of oxygen, half that of breathing at sea level. Every step required more effort than ever before. Many around me showed effects of the altitude; pounding headaches, nauseous tummies and fatigue.

Despite the intensity of the cold, the climb, the altitude, the eleven of us hikers that set off together on summit night, plus the crew, reached Uhuru Peak together. We felt an immense rush of accomplishment and companionship with the new friends that I had shared this journey with. Our eyes teared up as we embraced one another and celebrated our success with our team. We did it!

We took pictures at the sign, proving that we had completed the summit, and made our way back to Stella Point. Several other groups reached the summit around the same time but no one lingered too long. Most hikers were drained from the hike through the night, still shivering from the wind-chill and frigid temperatures and struggling with the incredibly thin air. I snapped pictures of the crater near Ururu peak, the glaciers and the snow and the other smaller peaks in the distance. After a quick snack break, we proceeded back down the mountain.

Summit: Uhuru Peak

Elevation: 5,895 meters (19,341 feet)

Temperature: Around 20 Fahrenheit, in the teens with the windchill

The descent from the summit required careful stepping. We were warned that most injuries occur in this steep downward stretch when hikers are most exhausted and perhaps, a little careless, after the summit. Our team dispersed, some hiking faster to reach a lower altitude and warmer temperatures, others slower, experiencing more intense altitude sickness. I enjoyed the walk back to Barafu camp in the comfort of daylight with increased oxygen in the air and sharing good conversation at the end of the hike. Nearing camp, the other g-fighters greeted us with mango juice, helped carry the packs and extra layers back to camp and accompanied us back to the site.

By noon, the team had all returned. Everyone took a well-deserved nap after hiking almost twelve hours with few rest stops. After a hot lunch, our team decided which of two campsites we would continue on towards. We choose the closer site, feeling exhausted and sore from the hike, and knowing that all members of our group could successfully reach it by nightfall.

In the late afternoon, we registered at the Millennium camp. We kicked off our boots and changed clothes, completely drained after a long night and day of hiking. Our chef celebrated the team with another cake and all the guys kept on singing. After such an intense day, the whole team crashed early.

Campsite: High Camp/Millennium Camp

Elevation: 3,950 (12,959 feet)

Temperature: Upper 30s, Fahrenheit

Day 8 – July 7th

Waking up for our last morning in Kilimanjaro National Park, getting the last early morning cup of coffee from Rolland and Jabrika, eating the last breakfast pancakes with the team, the journey was coming to a close. What an amazing adventure it was and how fortunate we were to have a strong team, preferable weather and a successful, safe hike!

We thanked our crew of g-fighters for their hard work, unbelieveable service and their endless energy. The guys were perfectly posed with a view of Kili behind them for a last round of song and dance. They repeated all the favorites from the week, continuing until Gerald cut them off three times. Ross shared words of our appreciation and an envelope of gratuity for their outstanding work, and our group shared a line up of hugs and goodbyes with the whole team of g-fighters.

We hiked the last five hours out of the park. As we descended, the landscape became greener, the forest flora and fauna returned. Knees ached with the downgrade and we were eager to get back. After a final check-out at the park office and last meal of a traditional Chaga stew, we loaded the bus and returned to the hotel.

Hot showers and a cold beer never felt so good. Our guides held a small certificate ceremony and we said our last goodbyes. We ended with more hugs and more singing and dancing in the hotel parking lot.

Good-bye and thank you! Kwaheri, asante sana!

Jambo, jambo bwana

Habari gani

Mzuri sana

Wageni, mwakaribishwa

Kilimanjaro, hakuna matata

Tembea pole pole, hakuna matata

Utafika salama, hakuna matatata

Kunywa maji mengi, hakuna matatata