48 Hours in Singapore

Arriving in Singapore

I arrived in Singapore as a short two day stopover on the way home after my three week adventure in Indonesia. 

From Sanur, Bali, I took a taxi to the Denpasar Airport. Check-in, immigration and security were quick and easy, so I had time to peruse the bookshops and use the free wifi. The Singapore Airlines plane was huge; I was in row 51 with many more rows behind me. The flight was only two hours but the service was impressive with warm towels, wine and very tasty food. 

Landing in Singapore was also smooth. I had a short wait for immigration and then exchanged some cash for Singaporean dollars for the next few days.

I took the metro, the MRT, for the  40 minute ride into the city to my stop. Their metro system was easy to understand, organized, in English and impeccably clean. 

Southbridge Hotel

From the MRT station, I walked less than two minutes to the Southbridge Hotel. They gave me my room key, a password for strong wifi and a ticket for a welcome drink in the bar.

My room was small and compact. Although the full sized bed was wedged into the nook and I barely had room to lay out my bag on the floor, it was perfect. I was only going to be in Singapore for two days and would spend most of my time out exploring. The bed was really comfortable and the water in the shower was hot. 

Chinatown

My hotel was located in Chinatown so I went to walk around my first evening in Singapore. I wandered several streets of touristy shops. Vendors sold cheap gift items, lots of t-shirts, handbags, make-up bags, key chains and nick-nacks. 

I was hungry, so I quickly moved onto the food streets. The tourist information sign indicated this street was previously full of brothels, but now it had mostly restaurants, stands and food carts. The first night I ate at “Xie Lao Song.” I loved their steamed buns, filled with minced pork and dipped in soy sauce which seemed to have a hint of maple. I briefly wondered if the steamed buns were intended to be one bite or two. Following the lead of other diners, two bites seemed to be preferred to both savor the cuisine and to not burn the inside of your mouth.. 

Later, I had an egglet for dessert. It was an egg waffle, crispy spheres with frozen yogurt and other sweet drizzles and sprinkles on top. It was sweet and filling. I would recommend it for sharing next time. 

Chinatown was filled with life. The central area in front of the community center and hawker center had a large stage and people gathered in the area, hanging out on the steps and in plastic chairs. Older men played a board game with grids and tiles. The first night there seemed to be a talent show with singers and dancers of all ages. The next night, a group of line dancers took stage. 

Walking back to the hotel that evening, I noticed the religious harmony that characterizes Singapore. Leaving Chinatown, I first passed an enormous Buddhist temple. Within the three minutes walk, I then saw a large celebration at a Hindi temple, and passed by a mosque and Methodist church. 

Katong Food Tour

The next day, I went across town to Katong for a food tour. With my phone in airplane mode, I needed to get clear directions before I left. But, it couldn’t have been easier. I downloaded google maps ahead of time and the ladies at the front desk informed me that I needed exact change on the bus. I walked toward downtown, which is very quiet on Sundays. Taking the bus, I went past 14 stops and then walked the last quarter kilometer to meet the tour guide at the Al Falah Barakah restaurant.

Jasmine and a Little About Singapore

Our tour guide for today was Jasmine. She introduced herself and gave a brief overview of Singapore. Over five million people live here, although over a million of the residents are foreign workers. English is the working language but most people also speak Chinese, Malay and Tamil. The country is religiously diverse and harmonious. It is very common to see a Hindu temple, a mosque, a Chinese temple and a Christian church on the same block. She further explained that Singapore was once a British colony which initially set up a trading post next to the river and, over time, the city developed its neighborhoods by ethnicity. It was also briefly part of Malaysia. In1965 Singapore became an independent country.

Katong Area

Although Singapore developed several ethnocentric neighborhoods, Katong developed with even more diversity. The British moved into this area, as well as the Chinese traders. Jasmine shared that the neighborhood is most known for Chinese Peranakan, an ethnic group from China that migrated down through Malaysia. It was once a fishing village and weekend retreat outside of the city but now is part of the metropolitan area. 

First Stop – Al Falah Barakah

We started our tour at this 24 hour restaurant which is known for their traditional Indian prata. Prata is a Indian flat bread, made with flour and pan fried. The baker starts with a ball of dough and flips its until it gets bigger. It’s a savory food, served with vegetable or meaty Indian curry. 

We drank tarik tea which is made with condensed milk, evaporated milk and tea leaves poured back and forth. It made a great combination with the prata bread with breakfast or anytime.

Al Falah Barakah is located in the Joo Chiat neighborhood. The area is named after a Chinese man who arrived as a poor peddler, acquired land, and became the wealthy owner of a coconut plantation who used his money to help others. He also gave some land back to the government to be used for a road that he used for his plantations. 

After 1960, more Chinese started moving into the area.  When Singapore became independent in 1965, the government promised a roof over every head and a job and training for every person. Here, this community center we passed started as a training center. One popular course was repairing radios. Now the community center has classes in cooking, dance and language. 

The architecture in this area shows the typical style of buildings from the Joo Chiat era. There is a five foot walkway in front of the shop with the homes built above. Over 800 of these shop homes are conserved in the historical district. 

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Second Stop – Kim Choo

Next we tried the famous Kim Choo sticky rice dumplings. Kim Choo started selling the dumplings on a pushcart and now her grandchildren manage multiple locations. The pork belly, rice and other ingredients are  wrapped into triangle packages with pandan leaves. They are especially popular during the Dragon Boat Festival, with comes from the Chinese traditions.

Here we also sampled  the famous nine layer cakes, Kueh Lapis. The concept came from the Europeans but the Paranakan Chinese in Joo Chiat have made it their own. Each layer is peeled off and eaten individually. Each part has symbolism such as nine meaning longevity and the yellow layer meaning prosperity. 

The Kim Choo house is now a museum about the Peranakan Chinese culture. Peranahkan is the blending of Chinese and Malay. Jasmine pointed out the elaborate containers used for storing rice, the bridal bed and the detailed needlework on traditional shoes. She also told the story of the residents meeting via matchmaker back in the day.

Jasmine further described the rough past of this neighborhood. Once secret societies ran the area with knife fights and gangs. The British police brought order and now the old large precinct station is a restaurant with Peranakan food. One side of the main road is shows the past with preserved buildings. Modern high rises line the other side. 

Lastly, we walked down the block to a Hindu temple. A small statue of Ganesh was found here where  the residents started to worship and later built the Ceylon Temple. In front of the temple is a cement square to mash coconuts which symbolizes purity and humility. In keeping with the religious diversity known in Singapore, there is a church next door to the temple. 

Third Stop – Katong Laksa

We visited the home of the original Laksa, a traditional curry with rice noodles. It is cooked in broth with shrimp and chicken. They use authentic coconut milk which they grind and squeeze fresh every morning. They set the chili on the side of the dish so diners can mix in as much as they wish. Jasmine says Singaporeans like lots of spice. 

Jasmine explains that this original family shop is incredibly popular. They often don’t open on weekends and when business is very good they tend to run out early and close up. Even Martha Stuart came here to learn. 

Next we had a plate of rojak, a traditional Southeast Asian salad. The vendor started by cutting up fritter into pieces. Next he added chopped up pineapple, turnip, cucumbers and fried beancurd. He then drizzled over a sweet, black sauce, and sprinkled over peanuts. It was crunchy mix of sweet and savory.

In route to our last stop, we pulled into another eatery to see how they make popiah. In a thin wheat flour wrapper, the cook added a black sweet sauce, green sauce, mashed spring onion, red chili, a boiled mix of turnip and carrot, egg, parsley, lettuce and bean sprouts. All rolled up, it appeared like a spring roll chopped into sushi-shaped bites. We then tried the popiah using chopsticks.  Down the street, we next sampled a bit of preserved meat at Bee Cheng Hiang. They are a popular gift at Chinese New Year. 

Lastly, we walked past a market selling durian. This smelly fruit is famous for its horrendous and potent odor. According to food and travel writer Anthony Bourdain, “your breath will taste as if you’ve been french kissing your dead grandmother.” Here they chopped the durian but tightly wrapped in plastic. We can still smell the aroma as we pass by. 

Last Stop – Soon Soon Huat Pastry Shop

This third generation pastry shop makes the best curry puffs in town. Their layered pastries include potatoes, eggs, curry powder and paste and more, all swirled into a snail inspired croissant. I found the original pastry delicious but they also make pastries with flavors of sardine or durian. The shop is very popular and they close when they sell out. Jasmine always orders a few ahead for when she brings a food tour in case it’s a busy day. 

I loved the food tour for a mix of history, culture and delicious foods in a neighborhood that I would not have explored otherwise. Jasmine had interesting information and took us to the best nooks and crannies around town. 

Gardens by the Bay

I spent the afternoon wandering the massive Gardens by the Bay, a landmark park in Singapore. This park is the most recognizable by its two massive conservatory bubbles and the skeletal super trees with a view of Marina Bay Sands across the water. 

Flower Dome

After walking the promenade and across the bridge to the gardens, I greatly appreciated the controlled climate of the Flower Dome. Inside the dome, it always feels like spring with the temperature set to maintain a Mediterranean climate. 

I took a quick, free tour with a group of Girl Guides offering their services to visitors about the succulent collection. They were certainly still learning about the plants and giving information in English but it’s good to support them in their endeavors. 

The Flower Dome contained plants from five continents with tons of beautiful flowers, plants and trees. They even have several Afrian baobabs with the largest weighing over 32 tons! 

Cloud Forest

Immediately upon entering, I was impressed by the giant 30 meter waterfall and the mist cooled my face. I took the path through the trees, went up the elevator and climbed the stairs to the top. There were walking paths above the clouds and through the canopy. 

There were so many great plants, arrangements and living walls. The garden was alive with greenery; orchids, trees, ferns, succulents and even carnivorous plants. In all of Gardens by the Bay, there are over 1.5 millions plants. 

Supertree Grove 

I sat for a while in the shade of the Supertree Grove, eating the rest of the dumplings and cakes from the morning. Twelve of the 18 Supertrees are in this section of the park. Each is a massive 25 to 50 meters tall and even have solar panels on the sunny side of their branches. At night they have an impressive lightshow as well. From here it was a quick three kilometer walk back to my hotel in Chinatown. 

Lion City Bike Tour

I arrived early at the Nicoll Highway Station to meet the bike tour around Singapore on my last day in town. I met Jeff, our tour leader, and joined other bikers from Belgium, Finland and Australia. 

Jeff helped us adjust the bikes to our heights and we were off. The day was a perfect combination of culture, history and fitness. We covered about 20 kilometers of Singapore and I had the chance to see most of the well-known neighborhoods on our five hour adventure.  

Formula 1

Our first stop was the finish line for the Singapore Grand Prix. Each year in September, Singapore shuts down for this intense night race. Drivers race around the five kilometer track 61 times in a race that lasts less than two hours. 

View Across Marina Bay

Next we biked the promenade across the river from the Gardens by the Bay and Marina Bay Sands Hotel. Jeff pointed out the best location to see the light shows in Supertrees and how to get to the top of the Marina Bay Sands without being a hotel guest.

Much of this area is reclaimed land. Forty percent of this section of town used to be ocean. Now its been built up with skyscrapers, a 165 meter tall Ferris Wheel, museums and arenas. Jeff shared some pictures of the same view in 1988 when the skyline only contained a couple of tall buildings. 

World War Two Monument

After circling back from the promenade, Jeff brought us to the World War Two Memorial. He explained Singapore’s experience during the war. Hours after the Japanse attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7th, 1941, the Japanese attacked Singapore and then occupied Singapore from 1942 until 1945. The monument bears no names; with the mass casualties in the bombing, there was no way to know all had died.

Today,  Singapore has a good relationship with Japan. After gaining their independence in 1965, the Japanese invested in the small nation providing many jobs.  And Jeff joked, Singaporeans love sushi. 

Merlion Statue

Over 700 years ago, the Tomasek fishing village occupied the area that is today’s modern Singapore. Around 1300, a prince from Sumatra arrived and the first animal he found was a lion.  He renamed the area Singapura, or Lion City.

Today the Merlion is the official mascot of Singapore. The mythical animals has a lion’s head and a fish’s body. Her statue sits on the Marina Bay waterfront and looks across to the Gardens by the Bay.

Stamford Raffles – Founder of Modern Singapore

Jeff provided a bit more history as we passed several buildings with the name Raffles. In January 1819, Britsh official Stamford Raffles arrived in Singapore. At the time, he worked for the British East India Company which also searched the region for spices along with the Dutch East India Company. 

Raffles is credited as the founder of modern Singapore. Jeff provided a quick overview of the history. Upon his interest in the area of Singapore, and in attempts not to create conflict with the Dutch, Raffles tried to find a local king. In the absence of a king, he found a local priest, gave him money and appointed him king so he could sign Singapore away as a trading post. Raffles and the British East India Company kick started the colonization and development in the region and eventually, they handed the territory over the Queen of England.

Today his legacy is shown around the city with many cultural buildings, hospitals, hotels, roads and transit stations that bear his name. 

Singapore River

As a British trading post, business moved in fast but with it, social problems developed among the different ethnic groups. There was once a lot of fighting and crime. However today, Singapore is one of the most racially harmonious places in the world. 

Jeff showed a map of the Singapore River over a hundred years ago when each area was divided by race. We paused by a statue on the river that reflected local history. A bronze statue shows a European man sitting while a Chinese man with a long braid and an Indian man are carrying heavy bags. Many Chinese and Indian unskilled labourers worked difficult jobs for little wages in the 19th and early 20th century to help develop the British settlement.

Modern Singapore

Today Singapore receives about 20 million visitors a year. Many of those, like me, visit just for a quick stopover while flying to and from other places. Jeff jokes that the official language is “Sing-glish” a mix of English, Chinese and Malay. Everyone learns English in school, as well as other dialects spoken by their families. 

Most Singaporeans live in public housing. Rent in the city is expensive, Jeff said, a small apartment costing $4,000 – $5,000 a month. Each building represents the ratios of the Singaporan population. For example, since 74% of Singapore is Chinese, each building would contain 74% Chinese residents. 

Also, the government does a good job of providing public services. At one time, sanitation and sewage were subpar but now Singapore is known for being a very clean city. Food, drinks and even chewing gum is banned on the metro to help keep it clean.

A couple other unique things about Singapore. They love indoor sports, such as badmitten, table tennis and swimming. The hot weather sends Sinaporeans inside to the AC. Golf is also popular but it’s cheaper outside Singapore where the land isn’t as expensive. Interestingly, Singapore the third densest country in the world, after Monaco and Hong Kong. 

Singapore is also known for its low crime rate. We passed one sign outside a police station showing the total theft and assault incidents since 2018 with an impressively low 75 cases each. Jeff explained that this is in part due to government’s tough punishment on crimes. Drug trafficking charges are sentenced by death. While Singapore was once known as the dangerous “Chicago of the East” in the 60s and 70s, it is now one of the safest places to travel today. Even jaywalking is illegal.

Hawker Centers

Jeff recommended a visit to one of the hundreds of hawker centers across the city. Singapore is known for is unique cuisine influenced by the many immigrants. Although the city is over 70% Chinese, the Chinese food isn’t the same as in China. The Singaporean Chinese food mixes with Malay and Indian cuisines creating new styles of familiar foods. Jeff recommended that  we try the chicken rice and chili crab. Bring cash. While the hawker center are fairly cheap, less than $5 for a meal, they don’t take credit cards.

Chinatown on Bike

We started our bike tour through Chinatown on the Street of the Dead. This is where the poor came to die so as not to be a burden on their families. Dying would bring one’s family bad luck and many recent arriving immigrants didn’t have a large family network. Instead, sick or elderly people would come to stay at this miserable hospice attached to funeral parlours. After death, a Chinese person’s body would be laid in a coffin with color paper effigies depicting world goods. These symbols would then be burned in hopes of comforts in the spiritual world. This practice ended in 1961 and today the street is filled with souvenir shops and street food. 

Another street in Chinatown was known for its opium dens in the 1930s and 40s. Many aging immigrants who did hard labor used opium as a painkiller. We followed the street down toward the best pineapple tart. Nearby is a durian store. They only sell cookies and tarts, not the actual fruit but it’s smell is enough. Behind the street is a commercial center with over 220 stores and a hawker center on the second floor.  

We skipped across town through  the Clarke Quay center. The former warehouses are now a popular area of bars and restaurants each evening. Closeby we stop for iced coffees and a short rest. 

Little India

We biked through the Singapore University, SMU, on the way to Little India. Many migrants came from India as prisoners and to work unskilled labor jobs. Originally this area wasn’t the main residence of the Indians in Singapore. In the 1870s when the Queen abolished slavery, the Indians spread out to this section to raise cattle. Around 30 years ago, it was donned  “Little India.”

Today the neighborhood contains a Hawker center that sells Indian cuisine and a mix of other cultures. The stores sell saris and apply henna tattoos. The smell of the spices and the music gave the area a unique Indian warmth unlike any other area we visited.

The Final Stretch

On the way back to our starting point, we stopped at a few other notable neighborhoods. Bugis street is a popular shopping area for fashion. It was quite crowded and had over 600 stores.

Haji Lane is in the Kampong Glam area and is known for its social nightlife. The streets are painted with bright colors and the buildings are their own work of art. 

Goodbye Singapore!

The bike tour ended in the afternoon. I had enough time to walk back to Chinatown with a final stop at a hawker center for one more round of steamed buns and a waffle with cheese. 

I picked up my backpack and went to the nearby MRT station to get to the airport. The transportation in Singapore was so easy and clear. I made it with plenty of time to spare before checking in for my evening flight to San Francisco and then to Chicago. 

Home Sweet Home!